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Fix a Push Slice: 4 Aids I Tested, $15-$295
Your push slice starts right and keeps going right, and it is the most demoralizing miss in golf because it looks like you aimed wrong and swung wrong at the same time. The fix you already bought is aimed at the wrong problem. Most “fix your slice” advice targets the pull slice, a club coming over the top with the face open, where the ball starts left and peels right. That advice will do nothing for you, because your problem is the opposite half of the swing.
Before you buy anything, you need to know which of two faults is costing you, because they require different tools. Let’s diagnose first.
How to Tell If You Have a Push Slice
Grab a club, take three swings, and watch the ball like a detective.
Test 1: Where does the ball start? If it starts right of where you’re aimed, your clubface is open at impact. If it starts left, your face is closed. The face is the steering wheel; the ball starts where the face points.
Test 2: Does it curve? If the ball starts right and curves further right, your club path is even further from the inside than your face. That’s the push slice: an in-to-out path with a face open to that path. If it starts right and holds its line, that’s a straight push or block, which is a different problem with a different fix. If it starts left and peels right, that’s a pull slice, the one everyone else writes about.
Test 3: Read your divot. Take a wedge and look at the divot. If it points right of your target line, you’re swinging too far from the inside, which is the path half of a push slice. A divot pointing left is the over-the-top move of a pull slice.
If you failed Test 1, your face is the problem. If you failed Tests 2 and 3, your path is the problem. Most push slicers fail all three.
Fix the Face: Tour Striker Educator ($57-$65)
A small rubber device that slides onto the club shaft and presses against your lead wrist, giving you a physical feel for where the face is through impact. It trains you to feel open, square, and closed without having to watch the ball.
What works: The face-open half of a push slice is a feel problem. You think the face is square, but it isn’t. The Educator gives you a tactile read on the face angle at impact, which is exactly the sense you’re missing. It’s $57 to $65 and it clips on any club.
What does not: It’s a training feel, not a measurement. It won’t tell you in degrees how open the face is, and the feedback is subjective until you learn what square feels like. It also feels odd on full swings at first.
When to use this: Buy it if you failed Test 1. Your face is open and you need to feel what square actually is.
Fix the Face With Data: HackMotion Core ($295, direct only)
A wrist sensor you wear during swings that records wrist angles in real time and tells you exactly how much the lead wrist is extended at impact, which is the direct cause of an open face.
What works: If the Educator is the feel, HackMotion is the measurement. It gives you the actual degrees of wrist extension that’s leaving your face open, so you can train toward a number instead of a vague sensation. No other tool on this list quantifies the face this precisely.
What does not: It’s $295, it only works through the HackMotion app, and it’s overkill if you just need a feel for square. It’s the tool you buy after the Educator, or instead of it if you want data instead of feel. It’s sold direct from HackMotion, not on Amazon.
When to use this: Buy it if you want proof the fix is working, or if feel alone isn’t moving the needle.
Fix the Path: ProSENDR PlaneMate ($119.99)
A training band that clips to your glove and club, keeping your trail arm connected to your body and your wrists in the right position through the swing. It’s the tool formerly sold as the Tour Striker PlaneMate.
What works: The path half of a push slice comes from getting stuck: your trail elbow drops behind your hip and the club dumps too far inside, so it exits to the right. The PlaneMate’s connection band keeps the trail arm in front of you, which stops the club from swinging out to the right through impact. It fixes the path in both directions, over-the-top and stuck-inside, by keeping your arms connected.
What does not: It takes a session to trust the band and it restricts what your arms can do, which feels wrong at first. At $119.99 it’s the priciest Amazon option here, and it’s a path fix, so it won’t touch an open face on its own.
When to use this: Buy it if you failed Tests 2 and 3. Your divot points right and the club is coming from too far inside.
Fix the Start Line: SuperStroke Alignment Sticks ($15-$20)
Two fiberglass sticks you lay on the ground to show your aim, your stance line, and your intended start line. The simplest diagnostic tool in golf.
What works: A push slice starts right partly because your setup is aimed right. Lay a stick on your target line and a second on your foot line, and you’ll see in ten seconds whether your body is open to the target, which feeds the whole miss. At $15 they’re the cheapest thing on this list and they diagnose the setup half of the problem before you swing.
What does not: Sticks fix alignment, not face angle or path. They show you the problem but they won’t train the fix. Pair them with one of the tools above.
When to use this: Buy them first, no matter what you failed. They’re the baseline every push-slice fix should start from.
What I Would Actually Buy
Resolve it by which test you failed. Failed Test 1 only, face open: the Tour Striker Educator at $57 to $65, plus alignment sticks. Failed Tests 2 and 3, path stuck inside: the ProSENDR PlaneMate at $119.99. Failed all three, which is most push slicers: the PlaneMate for the path and the Educator for the face, about $180 together. Add HackMotion Core at $295 if you want the data to prove the fix is taking.
Start with the sticks either way. You can’t fix a push slice if you’re aimed 10 yards right and don’t know it.
Where to Buy
- Tour Striker Educator $57-$65 at Amazon
- ProSENDR PlaneMate $119.99 at Amazon
- SuperStroke Alignment Sticks $15-$20 at Amazon
- HackMotion Core $295 (search Amazon; sold direct from HackMotion)
This is the push slice, not the pull slice and not a straight block. If your miss starts right and holds its line, that’s a push, not a push slice. If your ball starts left and peels right, you want the standard slice fix instead.